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Bonanza Peak is the tallest non-volcanic mountain in Washington State, rising to an elevation of 9,511 feet (2,899 meters). It stands proudly in the Glacier Peak Wilderness within the North Cascades. Known for its rugged terrain, striking views, and challenging ascent, Bonanza Peak is a favorite among experienced climbers and serious adventurers. Unlike many of the well-known Cascade peaks, Bonanza remains relatively remote and untouched, making it an ideal destination for those seeking solitude and natural beauty.

How to Reach Bonanza Peak, Washington

Getting to Bonanza Peak is part of the adventure, as it involves multiple modes of transportation. The most popular approach starts from the town of Lucerne, which is accessible only by boat or floatplane from Chelan, Washington. You’ll need to take a ferry operated by the Lake Chelan Boat Company to reach Lucerne. From there, you’ll ride a bus up to Holden Village, a remote community that serves as the gateway to the mountain.

From Holden, it’s a long and demanding hike on established trails like the Holden Lake Trail or the Company Creek Trail. Bonanza Peak’s summit requires technical climbing skills, including glacier travel, rock scrambling, and route finding. This is not a casual hiking destination—it is best suited for mountaineers with experience in remote alpine terrain.

Weather at Bonanza Peak

The weather around Bonanza Peak is typical of the North Cascades—unpredictable and subject to rapid changes. Summer months (July through early September) offer the most stable conditions, with daytime temperatures ranging between 50°F and 70°F (10°C to 21°C) and cooler nights that can dip below freezing.

Snow can linger on the mountain well into July, and sudden storms may bring rain or snow even during the warmer months. Always check the forecast and prepare for alpine weather, including strong winds and low visibility. Fall and winter conditions are extremely harsh, with deep snow and avalanche danger, making climbing very risky outside the summer window.

Best Time to Visit Bonanza Peak

The best time to visit Bonanza Peak is from late July to early September. During this period, trails are more accessible, snow has melted significantly, and weather conditions are relatively more predictable. Earlier in the season, climbers may encounter snowfields, especially near the summit, requiring crampons and ice axes.

Visiting outside of this summer window is not recommended unless you are a highly experienced mountaineer equipped with winter gear and avalanche knowledge. The remoteness and difficulty of the approach mean that rescues are extremely challenging.

Why Bonanza Peak is Famous in Washington

Bonanza Peak is best known for being the highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington State. It is also among the most challenging peaks to climb in the North Cascades due to its rugged terrain, remote location, and lack of marked trails. Its dramatic alpine setting includes glaciers, steep rock faces, and panoramic views that rival any in the Pacific Northwest.

Unlike more crowded destinations like Mount Rainier or Mount Baker, Bonanza offers an unmatched wilderness experience. It is often included in lists of Washington’s toughest and most rewarding climbs, drawing those who seek adventure and solitude.

Entry and Visit Details

There are no entry fees to access Bonanza Peak or the surrounding Glacier Peak Wilderness. However, if you plan to park at a nearby trailhead or forest area on your way to Lucerne or Holden Village, a Northwest Forest Pass may be required.

Visitors traveling through Holden Village may need to notify the community in advance, as it is a private Lutheran retreat center. They welcome respectful hikers but appreciate advance notice. Camping is allowed in the wilderness areas surrounding the peak, and hikers should practice Leave No Trace principles.

There are no services near Bonanza Peak. All gear, food, and emergency supplies must be carried in. Cell service is non-existent, so it's wise to carry a satellite communicator or GPS device.

History and Geology of Bonanza Peak

Bonanza Peak was first climbed in 1937 by a team of climbers from the Cascade Alpine Club. Its name is believed to have come from nearby mining operations, particularly the Bonanza and Crown Point mines, which were active during the early 20th century.

Geologically, the peak is made up of metamorphic rock, shaped by ancient tectonic activity and glaciation. The mountain features several glaciers, including the Mary Green Glacier, which is commonly used as a route to the summit. The presence of these glaciers adds to both the beauty and challenge of the climb.

Things to Do at Bonanza Peak

• Mountaineering: The primary activity at Bonanza Peak is climbing. Routes vary in difficulty, and most require glacier travel and advanced skills.
• Backpacking: Even if you don’t summit, backpacking to Holden Lake or Lyman Lake offers incredible alpine scenery and camping experiences.
• Photography: Capture stunning views of the Cascade Range, alpine lakes, and glaciers. Sunrise and sunset offer especially breathtaking photo opportunities.
• Nature Observation: Spot marmots, mountain goats, and wildflowers during the summer months. The wilderness is rich in flora and fauna.
• Exploring Holden Village: Learn about the village’s history as a mining town and its transformation into a retreat center.

Interesting Facts about Bonanza Peak

• Bonanza Peak is the highest non-volcanic peak in Washington and ranks among the top ten highest peaks in the state overall.
• The mountain features multiple climbing routes, with the Mary Green Glacier route being the most commonly used.
• Despite its height and beauty, Bonanza is rarely climbed due to its difficult access and challenging terrain.
• The area around Bonanza Peak has historical ties to gold and copper mining operations in the early 1900s.
• Bonanza Peak is part of the rugged North Cascades, often called the “American Alps” due to their jagged terrain and scenic beauty.

Tips for Visiting Bonanza Peak

• Train in advance: This climb requires stamina, strength, and mountaineering skills. Prepare well before attempting the summit.
• Plan your logistics: Coordinate your ferry, bus to Holden, and trail information well ahead of time. Space is limited on the ferry during peak season.
• Pack accordingly: Bring glacier gear, rope, ice axe, crampons, helmet, and navigation tools. Be prepared for emergencies.
• Camp responsibly: Use established sites and pack out all waste. Fires are not allowed in many alpine areas.
• Travel in groups: Due to the remote location and difficulty of rescue, traveling with companions is safer.
• Leave a trip plan: Inform someone of your itinerary, as help can be far away in case of trouble.